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Edited by: TJVNews.com
In a landmark ruling on Thursday, a federal judge issued a preliminary injunction to halt the proposed $8.5 billion merger between Tapestry, the parent company of Coach and Kate Spade, and Capri Holdings, owner of Versace and Michael Kors. The New York Times reported that Judge Jennifer L. Rochon of the Southern District of New York concluded that the merger would “substantially lessen competition” among brands in the accessible luxury handbag market, which could lead to higher prices for consumers.
According to The New York Times report, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) filed a lawsuit last spring to prevent the merger, marking an unusual case in the fashion industry, known for its competitiveness and relatively low barriers to entry. The FTC’s concern centered on the notion that the merger would reduce competition among popular mid-tier luxury brands, potentially driving up prices and impacting the accessibility of products for millions of American consumers.
Judge Rochon’s decision leaned in favor of the FTC’s perspective, noting that a consolidated Tapestry-Capri entity would no longer feel pressured to compete on price. She underscored this notion by remarking that “antitrust has come into fashion,” suggesting a newfound emphasis on regulating market competition within the fashion industry, as reported by The New York Times.
The New York Times report explained that Tapestry’s acquisition of Capri Holdings, announced in August 2023, was widely viewed as part of a trend of consolidation in the luxury fashion market. This merger aimed to create a powerful conglomerate in the accessible luxury sector, but Judge Rochon’s decision halts these plans, at least temporarily. In response, Tapestry announced it would appeal, arguing that the ruling was “disappointing” and asserting that the retail sector remains “intensely competitive and dynamic, constantly expanding and highly fragmented.”
The preliminary injunction effectively pauses the merger, allowing the FTC additional time to investigate the deal within its administrative court, according to The New York Times. This ruling marks a notable victory for FTC Chair Lina Khan, who has faced criticism for her aggressive approach to antitrust enforcement, particularly in light of her efforts to regulate mergers in sectors not traditionally viewed as monopolistic. The lawsuit has become a point of contention in the presidential race, as some of Khan’s critics argue that the FTC should prioritize issues beyond handbags and accessible luxury goods.
Central to the FTC’s argument, as reported by The New York Times, is the concept of “accessible luxury” — a term used in the industry to describe high-quality, fashion-forward accessories at a more affordable price point. Brands like Coach, Kate Spade, and Michael Kors have made accessible luxury a profitable sector, offering an aspirational but attainable option for consumers. By potentially reducing the number of players in this niche market, the FTC argued, consumers could face fewer choices and higher prices.
According to The New York Times, Tapestry remains resolute in defending its proposed acquisition, arguing that a combined entity would enhance its ability to innovate and provide value to consumers in a rapidly evolving retail landscape. However, Judge Rochon’s ruling underscores a growing regulatory scrutiny toward large mergers, even in industries traditionally perceived as competitive.
The New York Times notes that, according to the judge, accessible luxury handbags differ from traditional luxury due to their production and pricing strategies. Most accessible luxury brands, such as Coach and Michael Kors, manufacture in Southeast Asia and set entry-level prices around $100.